Paris Connected

Paris Bastille Antiques : treasures and oddments along the waterfront

May 11, 2008 · No Comments

There are a lot of flea markets, antiques shows and secondhand goods sales in Paris streets, in this time of he year, almost every week-end. One of the most nice and interesting “salon” takes place twice a year - in May and November - for 10 days on place de la Bastille and along the banks of Canal Saint-Martin.

Part of it takes place under a large tent, with one entry on boulevard de la Bastille in front of the opera, and the other one on boulevard Bourdon. It is the smartest, and the hottest (on sunny days) part of it.

There you can find most valuable goods, furniture, paintings, carpets, books, glass works…

oriental antiques…

ancient plates and African art…

and jewels to die for.

But it can be really hot in here, so step out in the open air.

a lot of smaller stands offer you all kind of secondhand and sometimes rare goods, in a warm atmosphere.

like this welcoming Bedouin camp offering beautiful kilims.

And it is really nice walking along the outside alleys overlooking canal Saint-Martin.

You can go from one side to the other by the footbridge over the Arsenal harbor, and you may feel the breeze.

It is more casual too. You may find wonders, and if you are interested in something, debate price with the stand owner, and if you wish some time to make a decision, ask for an invitation (or two) to come back.

Some stands specialize in a single kind of thing

like ancient linen

frames and paintings

or posters (mind the apparent disorder and the setting of this kitsch nativity and the carnal embrace on Slogan poster. )

Most have an appealing setting

or show an elaborate ” bric-a-brac”

in a surrealistic spirit.

Even if you don’t feel like buying anything, take a walk in there on a sunny day, you’ll have a great time.

“Antiquités Brocante” place de la Bastille, Metro Bastille, up to May 18, open everyday 11 to 19, entrance 8 euros. Next session : November 6 to November 16, same schedule.

And if you wish more information on when and where you can find this kind of event, go to : http://www.pointsdechine.com/

→ No CommentsCategories: antiques · events · ideas for a walk · places to see

Paris May 17: A night at the museum

May 9, 2008 · No Comments

May 17 will be the fourth edition of “la nuit des musées”. In Paris, from 18 up to 23 or midnight, you can spend your Saturday night walking in museums after hours.

Nine of the Paris Museums open their door for a late free visit of their current exhibition, with some surprises : Concert at the Museum of Modern Art, Persan music and art of arranging flowers at Cernuschi museum, poetry and dancers in the dark in Zadkine museum garden, songs and tales at Victor Hugo’s house, a dreamy installation “moon dresses” at Galliera museum, lights effects and three night watches at Petit Palais, a tour of his exhibition by artist Alain Séchas at Bourdelle museum…

Musée d’Art Moderne de la ville de Paris : 18 to midnight, 11 avenue du Président Wilson 75116 Paris Metro Iéna, 33(0)1 53 67 40 80 and www.mam.paris.fr/ -

Galliera, musée de la mode : 19 to midnight, 10 avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, 75116 Paris Metro Iéna, 33(0)1 56 52 86 00 and www.galliera.paris.fr

Musée Cernuschi, musée des arts de l’Asie : 18 to 23, 7 avenue Velasquez 75008 Paris Metro Monceau, 33(0)1 53 96 21 72 and www.cernuschi.paris.fr/

Petit Palais : 19.30 to midnight, avenue Winston Churchill 75008 Paris Metro Champs Elysées-Clémenceau, 33(0)1 53 43 40 36 and www.petitpalais.paris.fr

Musée de la Vie Romantique : 18 to 23,16 rue Chaptal 75009 Paris Metro Saint-Georges, 33(0)1 55 42 31 95 67 and www.vieromantique.paris.fr

Musée Carnavalet : 19 to midnight , 23 rue de Sévigné 75003 Paris Metro Saint-Paul 33(0)1 4459 58 31 and www.carnavalet.paris.fr

Maison de Victor Hugo : 19 to 23, 6 place des Vosges 75004 Paris metro Saint-Paul or Bastille, 33(0)1 42 76 75 84 and www.musees-hugo.paris.fr.

Musée Bourdelle : 18 to 23, 18 rue Antoine Bourdelle 75015 Paris Metro Montparnasse, 33(0)1 49 54 73 91 and www.bourdelle.paris.fr

Musée Zadkine : 18 to 22, 100bis rue d’Assas 75006 Paris metro Vavin, 33(0)1 55 42 77 20 and www.zadkine.paris.fr

All information on all events on that night on : musees.paris.fr

→ No CommentsCategories: art · events · exhibitions · museums

A highly controversial photo exhibition at Paris Historical Library

May 8, 2008 · No Comments

Usually, I would have categorized a post about Paris Historical Library as another chapter of “Paris Grand Siècle”, for it is located in one of the fine Renaissance style hotels of Paris Marais.

It was built in the last years of sixteenth century for Diane de France, a legitimated daughter of King Henry II, and bought in the mid seventeenth century by a sir de Lamoignon who was the president of the first Paris parliament.

Many of the “classic period” famous writers, like Racine, Madame de Sévigné, Boileau, or Malesherbes used to visit the place, which quite naturally became the Historical Library. Besides the interest of its catalog, the reading room has the most beautiful Renaissance painted ceiling.

If you go down the street, you get to the modern building where the book shop and exhibition room are located.

This is the place where opened on March 20 the exhibition of photos by André Zucc, first called “Parisians during the Occupation”.

The main point of his exhibition was to show the only color pictures taken by a French photographer during the German Occupation in Paris on world war 2. We are used to black and white pictures of this period, and these are really striking. The contest came first from the press, who pointed out that at least this needed some explanation, and then the guy in charge of culture at Paris town hall got mad about it, said it was outrageous and wanted to close it (maybe he was that mad mostly because he should have known better and earlier about it - historical library is part of Paris municipal libraries).

Finally, the title was changed into “some Parisians under the occupation” , Paris town hall edited a foreword in several languages given to visitors at the exhibition’ entrance and hired an historian to write commentaries about some of the pictures - maybe the Historical Library staff cold have thought of it in the first place.

André Zucca : place de la Concorde.

So what was the big deal? André Zucca, who was a quite well known photographer was hired during the Occupation by a newspaper called Signal, which was the organ of Nazi propaganda in Paris, to take pictures of German officials, and Paris social and political events - involving Vichy government and collaborationist spheres. These published pictures were black and white. But thanks to Signal, Zucca got some color film, which only Germans could afford, to achieve his private work (he took over a 1000 color photos). He certainly was not a Nazi militant, we was just taking advantage of the situation, without questioning it - and no doubt that he knew for whom and what he was working for, and he did not bother.

The color film needed a lot of light, so most of the displayed pictures show Paris streets under a bright spring sun, just as it was when I came and took the street pictures you see on this post. And of course, life looks more cheerful under the sun. Even this refugee moving out with his children after a bombing does not look that miserable.

So there is no set up, it was really sunny and Belleville street was crowded, these pictures point that a photographer’s eye is not objective, it chooses his subject and and shows his point of view : Paris as a lively and cheerful town, where people went on enjoying their life, not bothering about German occupation, just the way Zucca felt.

His color pictures have a strong impact, because these images make the war years closer to ours than black and white photos, and in the same time, they look a little like fiction - because the first German colored films had the same color and light effect. And sometimes, in spite of the carefree mood of the photographer, some harshness shows up -as the text on Nazi posters, and the so bright yellow stars pinned on the chest of people passing by in a Marais street.

This is a poster which has been removed from today’s Paris street, but all this fuzz has made a great deal for this exhibition, which is a big success, and is really worth visiting. The bookshop ran out of catalogs, but they will be soon reprinted - around May 10 - and for 35 euros, it is really an exceptional document.

Bibliothèque historique de la ville de Paris, hôtel de Lamoignon, 24 rue Pavée, métro Saint-Paul, open Monday to Friday 13 to 18, Saturday 9.30 to 18, closed on Sunday. Information on 33(0)1 44 59 29 40

Exhibition : “Des Parisiens sous l’occupation - photos en couleur d’André Zucca”, bibliothèque historique de la ville de Paris 22 rue Mahler 75004 Paris Metro Saint-Paul, up to July 1, open everyday 11 to 19, entrance 4 euros.

→ No CommentsCategories: architecture · bookshops · exhibitions · history · libraries · photo · places to see

I will be back soon

April 20, 2008 · 2 Comments

I love Paris, but sometimes I miss sea and sun. So I am heading south to find both, and I will be back in two weeks, with a lot things to do, places to see, and to write about.

→ 2 CommentsCategories: Uncategorized

Bihan Café : a genuine wine bar in New Eastern Paris

April 19, 2008 · No Comments

Feeling hungry or thirsty after visiting Méliès exhibition or watching a film at Paris Cinémathèque? Le Bihan Café is waiting for you. It’s also close to Bercy Palais Omnisport, and to Cour Saint-Emilion shopping area and garden, and if you come from National Great Library, just cross the Seine by passerelle Simone de Beauvoir.

This little wine bar is the last of all the colorful cafés and restaurants that disappeared when the ancient Paris wine market was closed. You can get an idea of its red brick architecture in the new Cour Saint-Emilion area, but nothing remains of its spirit.

Except Bihan Café. It is difficult to find a place on its tiny terrasse, but indoor is a bit wider and cheerful young waiters serve good food in generous portions, coming with a good selection of wines.

It used to be a working class joint, for it’s located close to Bercy freight railway station.

Here is Mr Mauras, a retired railroader, proudly sitting at his reserved seat near the bar.

The Bihan Café, 4 rue de Bercy 75012 Paris, metro Bercy tel 33(0)1 40 19 09 95. open everyday 11 to 15 and 17 to 23, up to 2 AM from Thursday to Saturday. It’s quite easy to find a table at lunch time, but better make a reservation for dinner, it’s usually crowded.

→ No CommentsCategories: restaurant · wine bars

Magic Méliès : a magic exhibition at Paris Cinémathèque

April 17, 2008 · No Comments

It is a good opportunity to go to Paris Cinémathèque, enjoy its beautiful architecture signed Frank Gehry and its pleasant surroundings in the modern east Paris.

Just started on April 16, a new exhibition “Georges Méliès, magicien du cinéma“. Even if you’re not particularly interested in film archeology, you’ll be amazed and amused, and so will be your kids.

You can watch about eight films, made by Méliès between 1896 and 1912.

Here a man watches le mélomane (1903) next to a panel showing the illusion of motion made from still pictures of a walking woman.

a magic lantern

and Méliès first camera.

The ice monster in A la conquète du Pôle Nord (1912) on screen over a scale model of the studio, with the giant monster figure.

the vessel to travel up to North Pole, the link between theatrical machinery and film.

A television crew filming le voyage dans la lune (1902)

A photogram showing the scientific team visiting the moon.

A colorized film, les 400 farces du Diable (1906)

a dancing skeleton hanging next to Une partie de carte (1896) on screen. Melies humorous fantasy is mostly based on devils, skeletons, chopped heads…(laugh with death and fear).

Besides films, scale models, dresses, props and cameras, story boards, drawings and paintings of film sets are wonderful.

La cinémathèque française, 51 rue de Bercy 75012 Paris, metro Bercy Information : tel 33(0)1 71 19 33 33 and http://www.cinematheque.fr/

Exhibition Méliès : Monday to Saturday 12/19, up to 22 on Thursdays, Sunday 10 /20, closed on Tuesdays and May 1. Price 5 euros.

To see films by Georges Méliès, three programs : April 25, at 20, salle Henri Langlois, program 1 : colored pictures, May 4 at 16, salle Henri Langlois, program 2 : Méliès the enchenter, May 25 at 16, program 3 (untitled). With piano accompaniment.

Special programs for children “illusion in films” every Wednesday and Saturday afternoon at 3 PM, from April 30 to June 14. Also on Saturday May 31 and June 7, a workshop “illusion”, for kids between 6 and 8. More information on http://www.cinematheque.fr

→ No CommentsCategories: exhibitions · film · kids · museums

A century of ballet at Paris Opera Bastille

April 13, 2008 · No Comments

A one night show at Paris Opera Bastille offers a journey through major figures and themes of twentieth century choreography, performed by Paris National Opera Ballet:

Raymonda , created in 1983 by Rudolf Noureev, was a re visitation of the original choreography by Marius Petipa, inspired by the magnificient ancient Russia ballet tradition.

In Les Quatre Tempéraments , George Balanchine was also inspired by the great Russian school.

And finally, Artifact Suite by William Forsythe makes a link between last century and ours, tradition and research.

Opera Bastille, April 15, 17, 21, 23, 24 at19.30, April 27 at 14.30, April 29, May 3 at 19.30, May 4 at 14.30, May 6, 8, 9 at 19.30. Price from 5 euros to 75 euros. Information and reservation tel 33(0)1 72 29 35 35 and on : http://www.operadeparis.fr/Saison-2007-2008/Ballets.asp

→ No CommentsCategories: ballet

Places to see around Paris Beaubourg

April 10, 2008 · No Comments

There are several nice passages to discover in the streets around Beaubourg.

For example, take a few steps north on rue Saint-Martin, at #157, you’ll see one entrance to Passage Molière.

It’s a charming quiet paved alley, where you will find “the house of poetry” in the Molière Theater, and a few shops.

and it will lead you to rue Quincampoix # 82

Crossing boulevard de Sébastopol, you’ll find at rue de Palestro corner the main entrance of passage du Bourg l’Abbé.

It is one of the most genuine of Paris covered galleries.

Though the pipe’s factory at the entrance is now an insurance company office, at #18 the woodwork shop still exists.

And on the other side of the gallery, you’ll find another passage entrance:

On the opposite side of rue Saint-Denis opens passage du Grand-Cerf

With it’s three floors, and apartments doors, it is the tallest Paris covered gallery.

Under it’s beautiful glass roof, you’ll find mostly design shops. It leads you out on rue Dussoubs

There, rather than looking at your map, just look in front of you :

This strange and quiet place next to the crowded Montorgueil shopping area is called place Goldoni, and on the wall inlaid with soccer balls, two white pannels with strange “poetics” tales written on it.

This one says : “It’s been told that the vibrations created by balls thrown against this wall might wake up the roots of some small trees that have been sleeping for centuries. It might be just a coincidence, but when they reach the prints made by the balls which made them come back to life, most of these trees are fully grown. But on the contrary, some look for other landmarks to have a reason to grow up a little more.

The other talks in the same way of bugs grubs asleep in the wall, awaken by the children’ voices, and going out, they make tiny holes forming letters echoing to the children’s screams and songs.

Just an unexpected pause.

Passage Molière : 157 rue Saint-Martin/ 82 rue Quincampoix 75002 Paris metro Rambuteau. Information and programs for Théâtre Molière - Maison de la Poésie on : http://www.theatreonline.com/guide/detail_theatre.asp?i_Theatre=436

Passage du Bourg l’Abbé : 3 rue de Palestro/120 rue Saint-Denis 75002 Paris Metro Etienne Marcel, more information on : http://www.passagesetgaleries.org/texts/passages/2fiches_passages/fiches/bourg_labbe.html

Passage du grand cerf : 145 rue Saint-Denis/10 rue Dussoubs 75002 Paris Metro Etienne Marcel, all about it on : http://www.passagedugrandcerf.com/

→ No CommentsCategories: ideas for a walk · passages and galeries · places to see

Paris Museum for kids : Galerie des enfants in Beaubourg

April 10, 2008 · No Comments

There is a specific place dedicated to kids in Paris Centre Pompidou entrance hall, just under the design shop :

Here seen behind “Mother” by Louise Bourgeois, it is called “Galerie des enfants”, and as for adults, it shows temporary exhibitions and activities.

Going on now : l’oeil sur l’échelle (the eye on scale) is both a photo exhibition and a playground signed by Edouard Sautai, a young artist who in his photos and videos mixes by optical techniques urban or country landscapes with scale models or small junk materials which seem larger and fit in their surroundings.

Children pick up pieces of toys and junks from boxes to make their own construction in front of an urban “trompe-l’oeil”,  exactly the same way this image was made.

Exhibition “l’oeil sur l’échelle” up to June 30 everyday except Tuesday 11 am to 19, reception for workshop 14.30 to 16.30 (for children from 6 to 12) Centre Pompidou, place Georges Pompidou, metro Hôtel de Ville or Rambuteau. Price 10 euros for one child and one adult. Information :Tel 33 (0)1 44 78 12 33 and on http://www.centrepompidou.fr/enfant

More about Edouard Sautai on : http://www.edouardsautai.com/

And of course, if the weather is fine, go for a walk around on the fountain with mobiles by Niki de Saint Phalle and Jean Tinguely on place Igor Stravinsky, just nearby.

→ No CommentsCategories: exhibitions · kids · museums

Louise Bourgeois : A bad old girl and a major artist in Paris Centre Pompidou

April 5, 2008 · No Comments

This should be this spring modern art exhibition, over 200 pieces, from 1938 to 2007, all by Louise Bourgeois, shown in Paris Centre Pompidou, usually known as “Beaubourg“.

This 97 years old lady has kept alive the bad spirit, humor and anguish of the little French girl through her work, which she started in 1938 in New York, where she came with her American husband and where she’s been living ever since.

She makes you think of Duchamp, and of the surrealists, but her artistic universe is unique and cannot be related to any specific school. Drawings, paintings, sculptures, installations, visiting this exhibition is an emotional, touching and fun experience.

“Mother” greets you in the hall. It is a recurrent figure, with the “femmes-maisons” ( women- houses). But she is not always figurative :

cumul 1969“Cumul ” 1969

And she can be very clear:

raltered states“altered states”(1992)

And when she uses baby pink material, it is not only sweet.

“seven in bed”(2001)

The main part of the exhibition is on level 6, but don’t miss the two rooms located in level 4 at the permanent collection entrance. One of them shows on every wall one of her last work (painting, drawing, writing) untitled “extreme tension” (2007). In the other one, a square piece of material says, embroidered in pink, “I’ve stayed in hell, it was wonderful”.

The had started while I was visiting, pouring on the terrace, over the tables adorned wit silly stiff roses.

And I stopped watching a 1993 video of Louise Bourgeois

And if you understand French, I advise you to look at it, if you want to find a seat, you have to wait until it is over, for she is so witty and clever that she keeps fascinating a large audience .

Exhibition “Louise Bourgeois” up to June 2, Centre Pompidou, place Georges Pompidou, Metro Rambuteau or Hotel de Ville, everyday except Tuesday 11 AM / 21, price 10 euros (for all exhibitions and permanent collection) tel 33(0)1 44 78 12 33. All information and reservation on : http://www.centrepompidou.fr/

→ No CommentsCategories: art · exhibitions · sculpture