John Armleder:Jacques Garcia - an unusual experience in Paris Swiss Cultural Center

Wandering in Paris Marais streets  on a hot or rainy, or windy day, do take a break and pay a visit to Swiss Cultural Center, located rue des Francs-Bourgeois, at the end of a narrow cobbled alley.

The Swiss artist John Armleder has kept being concerned by the prominent part of the viewer in a work of art, and the relation between paintings and their surroundings.

“Most of the time, my paintings would end being hanged next to a couch or over a fire place, so at this point, I decided to provide both the painting and the couch.“

As John Armleder thinks that it’s the viewer who makes the work of art, French designer Jacques Garcia thinks that it’s the customer who makes the design.

For this installation, John Armleder has asked  Jacques Garcia, well known for his baroque, neo- gothique, second empire interiors (Ladurée tea rooms for example), to create a furnished flat as a setting for paintings and photographs.

You first enter a fancy dining room  with a table set for supper, and then come in a boudoir opening on a bedroom, with a tiger skin laying  on the floor, its naturalized  mouth wide open, and a painting of a vampire lady on the wall. All  walls are covered with burgundy drapes, the only natural light comes from a ceiling window.  Profusion of art and literary books, decorative objects, paintings and photos on the walls (not all by Armleder) that  share a  sophisticated and a bit deleterious erotic touch, all that make you feel it’s really someone’s place. An odd, out of time, a kitsch but somehow charming private place, a place you don’t belong to.  And suddenly, you see yourself in a mirror you had’nt noticed : you’re part of the whole installation. It makes you feel as if you were walking inside a Gustave Moreau painting.

A bit weird experience, but really worth it.

Centre Cuturel Suisse 132-138 rue des Francs-Bourgeois 75003 Paris Metro Saint-Paul tel 33 (0) 1 42 71 44 50 opened Wednesday to Sunday 13 - 20, Thursday up to 22. Free entrance. Exhibition John Armleder : Jacques Garcia up to August 4, and from September 3 to September 28 (Swiss Cultural Center closes in August )

For more information, go to : www.ccsparis.com/

all shades of red in Paris Musée des Arts Décoratifs

In Paris, 2008 celebrates red as a color, and it takes place at Museum of Decorative Arts, located in a western wing of Louvre Palace.

Red as a color has many strong and opposite meanings, such as passion, danger, interdiction, rebellion, power…in popular French, “prendre un coup de rouge” does’nt mean what it’s literal translation suggests : “get hit by a communist”, but just “have a glass of (red) wine”.

Organizing elements of its permanent collection, the museum proposes an exhibition called aussi rouge que possible (”as red as possible”). It’s a series of installations , focused on diferent themes.

Red for power:

sculpture of roman emperor Hadrien (antique restored in French seventeenth century) next to  armchair Big Easy (Ron Arad, Italy 1991) and a portrait of Turgot by Carl Van Loo (circle 1739)

Red interiors:

armchair vermetila Fernando Campana Brazil 1993

couch Bocca Studio 65 Torino 1969, in front of 1950 posters for Lido Review and lipstick Rouge Baiser

Red clothes :

couch Djinn by Olivier Mourgue France 1993 under a tapestry : Return of the prodigal son France 1580

hats (1939/1950) in front of the window where a 1990 Yohji Yamamoto dress stands in front of a Castilian altar piece (circa 1475/1480) featuring Saint Michel beating the dragon, and two servant dresses (France 1820 - 1860)

Hell and Redemption :

Cabinet Enfer by Elisabeth Garouste Mattia Bonetti France 1998 and a poster advertising Anis Infernal by Leonetto Capiello France 1905

Red Alert:

Poster Hiroshima mon Amour (a play by Marguerite Duras) Théâtre de la tête noire, France 1998.

And in the same time and place, Valentino, Themes and Variations, an exhibition dedicated to the work of a fashion designer well known for his “red”.

And it’s also fascinating to wander through this museum’s huge and various permanent collection.

Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107 rue de Rivoli 75001 Paris, Metro Palais-Royal, tel 33 (0)1 44 55 57 80 Closed on Monday, Tuesday Wednesday Friday : 11 to 18, Thursday 11 to 21, Saturday Sunday : 10 to 18.

Exhibition Aussi Rouge que Possible, up to November 1.

Exhibition  Valentino, Thèmes et Variations, up to September 21

Travel through fashion history with Christian Lacroix in Paris Musée des Arts Décoratifs

Christian Lacroix celebrates the twentieth birthday of his fashion design house in a fascinating exhibition at Paris Musée des Arts Décoratifs, which is located in a west wing of the Louvre. Of course, it’s mostly a girl and lady thing, but everyone interested in fashion and design would enjoy it.

The title - fashion stories, or fashion histories as well - is quite accurate, for on two levels we have a large selection of “Haute Couture” pieces by Christian Lacroix throughout this last twenty years, shown with many samples of ancient or modern clothes which have inspired him.

On the ground floor, you can sit and watch a video of Christian Lacroix last fashion show.

The exhibition starts with white :

This 1990 white embroidered dress is shown in front of white dresses of the past, and is a tribute to the very talented Callot sisters who managed one of the leading fashion design houses during the 1920s.

And facing white, color :

This long rose evening coat of the 2004/2005 collection goes with a 1870/1875 bronze green dress.

This 1995 purple dress is shown next to a 2006/2007 black one with the emblematic Lacroix heart on the chest.

Then come dots :

A mixed spring dress with a 1900 blouse, a 1989 Lacroix skirt, and a 1865 hat.

This 1999 spotted dress faces a 1939 suit by the great Elsa Schiaparelli, and between these is hanged a 1969 dress by Guy Laroche.

Then come stripes :

Japanese and Hispanic inspirations are mixed on this two figures facing each other, and behind black and white stripes by Lacroix, red and white stripes on 1895 hanged clothes.

Or the art of mixing motifs that don’t match.

The bride is hanged between the two floors. And upstairs, many other themes like flowers :

Textures :

Historicism :

You will find informations on the clothes shown in each section printed on large sheets that you pick up on the wall. If you read French, I strongly recommend the texts that Christian Lacroix wrote about each theme of the exhibition : they are witty and show his conception of fashion like a never ending recollection and cyclical returns, his tribute to other fashion designers, and the way he uses both biographical and literary influences.

And as it starts with white, it ends with black.

And this black figure is so fuzzy that you could almost think it moves.

But before leaving, have a look at the catalogue.

Musée des Arts Décoratifs 107 rue de Rivoli 75001 Paris, Metro Palais-Royal, tel 33(0)1 44 55 57 50. Open Tuesday to Friday 11-18, up to 21 on Thursday, Saturday and Sunday 10-18. Entrance 8 euros.

Exhibition Christian Lacroix, Histoires de Mode up to April 6. Catalog 49 euros also available on the museum website : http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/fr/02museemode/index.html

Care for design? Go to see works by Pierre Paulin at Paris Manufacture des Gobelins

The Manufacture des Gobelins is a 1913 building located on Paris avenue des Gobelins, in front of a historical factory specialized in tapestry.

This front building is actually the Galerie des Gobelins, now showing a large selection of works by Pierre Paulin.

The presentation uses a mirror ceiling, and all pieces of furniture are set on a mirror, so that you can have a look at these from every angle.

The ground floor shows pieces of furniture from late fifties to early eighties, very elegant, colorful and …up to date

On the walls are tapestries made by the Gobelins factories on twentieth century artists works, like this one, by Sonia Delaunay:

The exhibition’s subtitle is “le design au pouvoir” ( “design in power”? ) referring to the fact that Pierre Paulin worked for the “Mobilier National” (National Furniture), as for example this desk and armchair designed for François Mitterrand’s office.

It’s only natural that this exhibition takes place here, for since Colbert, the Gobelins were in charge of royal tapestry and furniture works.

Climbing the imposing stairs, meet this typical early twentieth century style “bas relief”

over which hang a selection of National Furniture chairs ( created between 1980 and 1982)

The upper floor leads you to President Georges Pompidou and his wife’s apartment. When they moved in the Elysée Palace - house of all French Presidents - they found it terribly old fashioned and dull, and asked Pierre Paulin not only to design furniture and dishes, but to rebuild the whole inner space.

A dining room piece of furniture in front of a Pierre Soulages tapestry:

A 1966-1968 designed “declive” :

A range of armchairs designed in the sixties :

And an incredible black and white seat made for 15 people (1963)

And this leads us down by backstairs, on the wall a modern work made of threads reminds us the main function of the Manufacture des Gobelins : weaving tapestries.

But before leaving, if you understand French, go back to the main stairs, in the basement is running an interesting video interview with Pierre Paulin - who is over 80 now - in which he tells about his work for the Pompidou couple and for French Government.

This pleasant journey into one of the major twentieth century French designer’s world also reminds us that not so long ago, some French Presidents were interested in and promoting modern art and did not think of culture only on terms of plowing.

Manufacture des Gobelins 42 avenue des Gobelins 75013 Paris, Metro Gobelins, guided tours of the factory Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday at 2 pm and 2.45 pm, reservations on tel : 33(0)1 44 54 19 33 or 33(0)1 44 08 52 00. Price 8 euros.

For more information : http://manufacturedesgobelins.fr/

Exhibition “Pierre Paulin, le design au pouvoir”, Galerie des Gobelins (same address) ,tel 33(0)1 44 08 53 49) everyday (except Monday and May 1) 12.30 18.30, price 6 euros. Up to July 27.

Paris Centre Pompidou will blow its 31 candels on January 31

Though it opened 31 years ago, Centre Pompidou looks still young. As always, there had been a competition between several plans, and unusually the winner was a most daring project, designed by the Italian architect Renzo Piano and the British Richard and Sue Rogers. and when it opened, with a mono-graphic exhibition of Marcel Duchamp, as far as I remember, it was a very controversial matter.

With its colored tubes and white pipes, it looked as a playful kind of skeleton factory, and for museum it was not at all dignified.

It was instantly a huge success: its large public library was very popular among students and young people, as well as its great exhibitions and its modern art permanent collection.

In the first years, one could use freely the escalators to go up to the terrace and have a drink or just enjoy the sun and the view.

Instantly, the place was called Beaubourg, after the name of the area it’s built in, and that is still the name Parisians use rather than Centre Pompidou (it was named after the French President who signed for it, Georges Pompidou, who was really interested in modern art. )

Nowadays, you have to go in and take a ticket to go up.

There you will also find a shop selling design things and small clothes, a bookshop, and an expansive self-service café. (Do prefer outdoor cafés around)

Outdoor, you can take a private elevator if you have made a reservation at le Georges, the quite expansive - but not gastronomic - restaurant on top. Though the setting designed by Dominique Jacob and Brendan McFarlane matches perfectly with Beaubourg’s style, it is mostly worthwhile outdoors on sunny days.

For its thirtieth birthday, the permanent modern art collection has reopened in a new presentation, and it is extremely rich and impressive.
As part of this celebration, Beaubourg is now showing, since November 2007, a mono-graphic exhibition of Richard Rogers work over the 40 past years.

The place is often crowded on its plaza side, the museum entrance side, people watching street performers, as in most touristic places.

I do prefer to go nearby to Stravinsky Fountain, featuring mobile sculptures by Niki de Saint-Phalle and Jean Tinguely.

It is a great place for children too.

Centre Pompidou, place Georges Pompidou, 75003 Paris, Metro Rambuteau tel 33(0)1 44 78 12 33. Open everyday but Tuesday 11 to 21, Price 10 euros for all museum and exhibitions. Exhibition “Richard Rogers and architects” up to March 3.

For more information and reservation, go to : http://www.centrepompidou.fr/Pompidou/Accueil.nsf/tunnel?OpenForm

Le Georges : reservation tel 33(0)1 44 78 47 99, fax 33(0)1 44 78 48 93, virtual visit on :

ttp://www.centrepompidou.fr/Pompidou/Communication.nsf/0/C802434866E91C8CC1256D9800513026?OpenDocument&sess

Christmas present for gourmets, restaurant Jules Verne is reopening on Paris Eiffel Tower

Eiffel Tower is probably the most famous of all Paris monuments,

And Alain Ducasse one of the most famous french chiefs.

photo JDD

It took him a hundred days (like Napoleon, but this time it might be a success) to completely renovate the “Jules Verne“, the old iron lady famous restaurant.

Designer Patrick Jouin has finished his work,

photo Richard Gaillarde/Gamma pour JDD

And Alain Ducasse has given the Jules Verne keys to Pascal Féraud, a 34 years chief who’s been working with him in Paris, Monaco, London and United States. His intention is to make the of the Jules Verne the place to taste the utmost French cooking and wines, in a great setting.

Located on the tower’s second floor, the restaurant’s room overlooks Paris, 125 meters above ground. It will open a few days before Christmas, but booking has already started.

Le Jules Verne, Eiffel Tower Metro Champ de Mars. Private escalator access on south pilar. Lunch menu : 75 euros, dinner menus 155 and 190 euros. Reservation by telephone : 33(0)1 45 55 61 44 and fax 33(0)1 47 05 29 41.

Virtual visit of the Eiffel tower, without standing for hours in line in the cold on : http://www.tour-eiffel.fr/index.html

Christian Lacroix already dresses Evian’s bottles for New Year’s eve.

Since 1992, year of Albertville’s Olympic Games, French mineral water Evian produces every winter specially shaped or adorned bottles for Christmas and New Year eves.

Evian Millennium bottle:

Since 2000, other mineral water trade marks have done the same :

Perrier 2000 :

Badoit 2004 :

So that Evian had to become more creative for it’s 2005 edition :

This year, for 1,98 euros, you can buy fashion designer Christian Lacroix’s Evian “midnight supper”(ready to wear) bottle in Monoprix and major Paris supermarkets.

If you prefer the “haute couture” version, it’s far more expensive : 5000 euros, but it would be generous : profits will go to charity institutions.

There was a “preview”sale on line of this 2007 edition, and collectors wait each year for new Christmas water bottles.

I have some left, maybe should I sell these on e-bay.

Visit this most elegant site : http://www.evianparchristianlacroix.fr/

A Paris bookshop dedicated to fashion and design

Fashion victims and design amateurs now have in Paris a bookshop where they can find anything printed on the subject : of course all magazines, fashion parades reports, catalogues, fashion designers biographies, great fashion photographers albums, art books…

photo credit : DR

It’s located a little pedestrian street of les Halles district.

Mode Information, 22 rue Pierre Lescot 75001 Paris tel 33(0)1 40 13 81 50 Metro Châtelet, RER Châtelet les Halles (A, B and C lines).

Paris: for fashion victims and design lovers, 2 hotels by Christian Lacroix

In Paris, you have two opportunities to go to sleep and wake up in a colorful elegant bedroom outfitted by French fashion designer Christian Lacroix, and have only two minutes walk to get to a museum.

On last July opened Hôtel Bellechasse on the left bank, near Musée d’Orsay and Rodin museum.

Both photos from http://www.holychic.com/

34 rooms, from 200 to 340 euros, not more expensive than other Paris hotels of same grade, and certainly more fun.

Hôtel Bellechasse, 8 rue Bellechasse 75007 Paris tel 33(0)1 45 50 22 31 mail : info@lebellechasse.com Métro Solferino, RER Musée d’Orsay (line C)

For a virtual visit, information and reservation : http://www.lebellechasse.com/

Hôtel du petit moulin is in the Marais, close to Picasso Museum.

It was built in seventeenth century building, at the corner of rue de Poitou and rue Saintonge, where a bakery stood in 1900, and outside has kept it’s original look.

Rooms from 180 to 290 euros.

Hôtel du Petit Moulin 29 rue de Poitou 75003 Paris tel : 33(0)1 42 74 10 10 Mail : contact@hoteldupetitmoulin.com Metro Filles du Calvaire or Saint-Sébastien - Froissard.

For more information and reservation : http://www.paris-hotel-petitmoulin.com/index.html

Wandering about Saint Paul village in Paris

Coming to light at Saint-Paul subway station, you can’t miss the seventieth century Saint Paul church, ordered by king Louis XIII.

You may come in even if you’re not a catholic, you’ll see two interesting pieces of art:

A romantic nineteenth century painting by Eugène Delacroix “Christ in agony at Olive Trees Garden”, and a statue by Germain Pilon, all sixteenth century French kings’ official sculptor.

Coming to light again, cheer up and take rue Saint Paul, you’ll find Village Saint Paul’s gate.

It’s a charming maze of unevenly paved courts, named by different colors, the orange court, the pink one, the green one…

There you can peacefully wander about, window shopping or visiting some of the village shops, all specialized in antiques or design.

Go out Saint Paul Village on Jardin Saint Paul street, and you’ll see the back of Saint Paul church and this beautiful fountain.

Take a left on rue Charlemagne, and then on rue du Figuier: it was named after Queen Margot, former wife of King Henri IV, who moved here in Hôtel de Sens and had cut down a large fig tree to make way for her coach.

Unfortunately Hôtel de Sens is being restored and covered with scaffoldings. This is what it looks like usually, and will look like within 6 months :

You can still enter the garden and take a look at the back of the building.

The place is now occupied by Fornay library, which is specialized in decorative arts, opened to public, and presenting temporary exhibitions : up to January 5, posters by Francisque Poulbot, who created after first world war his figures of poor Montmartre kids called “Poulbot“.

Bibliothèque Fornay 1 rue du Figuier 75004 Paris tel 33(0)1 42 78 14 60, Métro Saint-Paul, open Tuesday to Saturday 13.30/19.30, free entrance to library, price for Poulbot exhibition : 4 euros.

More information and pictures about Village Saint-Paul on : http://boutique.inventions.free.fr/saint_paul.htm