Paris 08 wakeful night : my report

It was a bit chilly Saturday night, but nothing compared to the rain and wind on Friday, so there was a crowd of people pacing around Paris for this seventh Nuit Blanche.  Paris railway stations were the main theater of event.

Before 10 PM a thick crowd had already gathered around Gare de Lyon

to watch the shooting of a Bollywood clip directed by Indian director Shaad Ali :

People waited patiently, some wondering at how long it takes to register a few seconds shot, and whispered “hush” as soon as play-back started. Lovely.

A shining ancient car was parked in front of Gare de Bercy

It’s not an installation, it’s an advertisement :

But on the outside parking lot, a red coupé was the centre of attraction :

Sitting in front, a male and a female figures with white heads.

The couple was having small talk : “He” asks “her” “-Do you think you can drive?” and argued on some philosophical or artistic issues. Only their lips and very reallistic eyes moved.

It was “Autoportrait” by Magdalena Kunz and Daniel Glaser, two artists living in Switzerland, in Zurich, where their creatures’car came from.

Outside Gare Saint-Lazare, you could watch and listen to the Sound of the Microclimates by the English duo Semiconductor - Ruth Jarman and Joe Gehrardt -

Inside the station -which is being renovated - sound and pictures all over the place

getting more and more abstract

Later on, the Marais area was heavily crowded, but everyone could see night and day coexisting on the freshly renovated Tour Saint-Jacques. This is the work of Chinese Gu Dexin

and it was different on every angle :

You had to wait long to enter Musee Carnavalet and live the quick but unusual experience of walking through a wall inyo a foggy dark unknown :

It was Going Through Walls by Gints Gabrans.

Paris Jazz Club paid a tribute to Stephane Grapelli on rue des Lombards at Baiser Salé and Duc des Lombards, but seeing a huge line in front of each, we went away.

In the Archives Nationales people could listen to a classic jam performed by young musicians from National Paris and Lyon Conservatoires.

It was an opportunity to walk around the beautiful courtyard of Hotel Soubise. Concerts took place inside and outside too.

You could sit in Eglise Saint-Paul to attend to Station to Station by Jeremy Blake

Five digital animations about traveling from one station to another

We were deeply disappointed arriving at midnight thirty at Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme where the installation Gute Nacht by Christian Boltanski, Franck Krawczyk and Jean Kalman took place, and finding the door closed. It had ended at midnight. And we were even more disappointed when we were told how great it had been.

But something comforted us : entering  Hotel d’Albret on rue des Francs-Bourgeois, we could be part of a great internet performance. Initiated by French director  Véronique Aubouy, lebaiserdelamatrice.com offers all internet people to read one of the 3424 pages of French writer Marcel Proust’s huge masterpiece, A la Recherche du Temps Perdu.

Recordings are going on since Saturday September 27 in Théâtre Paris-Vilette 211 avenue Jean Jaures 75019 Paris, up to October 12. You can record yourself  with your  webcam up to October 26. Pages are selected at random and then edited in order : 170 hours of reading.

I was very happy to end this new Nuit Blanche by reading one page of A l’ombre des Jeunes Filles en Fleurs.

If you wish to be part of this, you can get more information on  http://www.x-reseau.fr/

Register or select a recorded page on www.lebaiserdelamatrice.fr

Paris October 4 : a colorful wakeful night

If you stay in Paris next week-end, save your Saturday evening, and may be the whole night, to walk around Paris and discover the seventh Wakeful Night.

This year’s edition is mostly dedicated to video and film.

If you choose east Paris, on metro line 14 between Cour Saint-Emilion and Gare de Lyon stations, an editing of space conquest footages by Artavazd Pelechian will make feel like taking off at Bercy railway station :

and in front of Gare de Lyon, you’ll can watch the shooting of a Bollywood Film directed by Shaad Ali:

And if you’re in a romantic mood, go back towards the center, near Bastille, and stop at La maison Rouge 10 bd de la Bastille, to take part in Christian Boltanski’ work les archives du coeur, and have your heartbeat (and your sweetheart’s too ) registered on a CD.

From there, you may go towards Marais and see the Saint Jacques tower in a day and night light, thanks to Gu Dexin :

and though I have no preview of it, I would suggest, if you are walking in this area, to stop at the Museum of Judaism Art, 71 rue du Temple, and see snow falling all night : Gute Nacht by Christian Boltanski, Franck Krawczyk and Jean Kalman.

Many things to see and listen too around Montparnasse and Saint-Germain. For example, if you feel home sick, go to Saint-Germain Church  to listen to Patti Smith:

Many places to visit around Gare Saint-Lazare and Champs-Elysées, as Brillant Noise by the British  SEMICONDUCTOR, as well as around Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est, where Pierrick Sorin might ask you to pose for a family portrait.

More information to plan your night trip on : http://www.paris.fr/portail/Culture/Portal.lut?page_id=6806

And if you’re travelling with kids, there is a special program made for you and them by Paris Mômes, including Nabaz Mob, cour Saint-Emilion, a choir of a hundred of Nabaztags composed by Antoine Schmitt and Jean-Jacques Birgé (starts at 20 PM) :

and crossing the Seine by passerelle Simone de Beauvoir, go up to rue Paul Klee, to watch “la danse de la fontaine émergeante” (the dance of the uprising fountain) :

For more information, you can upload this program on http://www.parismomes.fr/surprises/page_surprises.php?id=43

Let’s hope that weather will be on our side!

Have a great Nuit Blanche , and I’ll be back next week with some pictures and my report.

Andrea Mantegna’s paintings in Paris Musée du Louvre

There are many reasons to pay a visit to Paris Musée du Louvre, and this fall provides a very special one : Mantegna 1431 - 1506.  The last exhibition dedicated to this star painter of Italian Renaissance took place in London in 1992, so this one is a real event.

Don’t get fooled by the apparent quietness in the lobby, people gather under the Sully aisle esclator, you have to stand in line for a while and it’s a bit crowdy inside, so I would suggest you to come early morning, or for nocturnes, or to make a reservation.

But you should’not miss this. For the first time - at least for decades- the exibition shows most of Mantegna’s remaining works, gathered from museums all around the world.

This Saint Marc leaning on a “trompe-l’oeil” balcony comes from Städelesches Kunsshalle in Frankfurt am Main, and Mantegna painted it in Padoue in 1450, when he was about nineteen.

This wonderful Saint Jérôme in the Wilderness comes from San Paolo Museum of Art and was painted in the same years.

The exhibition follows a chronological path, pointing the artist’s influences, his followers and the contemporary painters he knew, in the first place Giovanni Bellinni, who was also his step-brother.  It refreshens our perception of the cultural and political exchanges and habits in European countries during the fifteenth century. Mantegna’s painting turned the gothic page and opened the Quattrocento, which partly explains why he was so famous in his time.

Christ in the olive trees garden, painted in 1455, comes from London National Gallery.

This gathering makes clear some of the artist’s major topics, how he used the frame, trompe l’oeil effects, the underneath point of view, perspective and various scales, hyper realistic details and fantasmatic visions, which explains why his work interested or inspired many later artists, and is still fascinating.

The exhibition is also made for children. Next to some pictures, cardboards invite them to focus on some detail, to look for a rider hidden in a cloud, for animals, for what’s going on in the background…  ..

We can regret that the absence of the Dead Christ, who stayed hanged on a wall of Milan’s Brera Pinacotheca, but fortunately Madrid Prado Museum has let go this fascinating Death of the Virgin (1461), which actually represents a most beautifully staged portrait of the city of Mantoue (the city of his new sponsor)

This version of Saint Sebastien (1470) comes from Wien Kunsthistoriches Museum.

And this theatrical Judith and Holopherne (1495) comes from Washington National Gallery of Art.

But the Madona of Victory (circa 1596) is a resident of Paris Musée du Louvre.

His engravings, sketches…are fascinating too, and above all  the frescoes that could not be moved, so that we’ll have to go to Italy to see what’s left of them - but who would complain about this ?

Meanwhile, this Paris exhibition is a must, and a delight

Mantegna 1431 - 1506, Musée du Louvre, aile Sully (enter under the pyramid) metro Palais-Royal, tel 33(0)1 40 20 53 17, open everyday except Tuesday 9 to 18, Wednesday and Friday up to 22. Up to January 5. Entrance €9,50  (€13, or €11 at night, if you wish to visit some other part of the museum, but then, take a break, it’s a a very rich exhibition and you don’t want to look at something else right away ).

To buy your tickets previously you may go on : http://ticketnet.com/shop/fr/module.asp?id=34

or : http://www.ticketweb.com/

or: http://www.fnacspectacles.com/

More information on : http://www.louvre.fr/llv/commun/home.jsp

Walk among glittering crystals in Paris Parc de Bagatelle

Bagatelle is a beautiful ancient romantic garden, created in queen Marie-Antoinette’s time, and located in Bois de Boulogne. It is famous for its gorgeous roses, but this fall, all great French historical crystal trademarks have joined their talents to change Bagatelle into crystal gardens

On a beautiful day, it’s a lovely destination, but forget it if it’s grey.

Ever lasting water lilies glitter in the sun.

Palm trees are heavy with shimmering glass fruits,

or blue flowers,

and fountains look frozen.

Walk in the Trianon to look at more traditional crystal works, like this chandelier.

Outside, crystal swans float along with their shiny transparent reflection,

but it takes more to to disturb living swans.

All these dreamy pictures were taken by my friend Anne Marie Dumas.

Jardins de Cristal à Bagatelle, every day 10 to 18 up to November 8, entrance €3.

Bagatelle garden is route de Sèvres, Bois de Boulogne. Metro Pont de Neuilly + bus 43 up to Neuilly-Parc de Bagatelle (end of the line). But you can also take bus 43 from Gare du Nord, or Gare Saint Lazare and ride all the way by bus. It might take a little longer, but it’s a nice trip through Paris.

Paris Autumn Festival starting September 13 at “La Maison Rouge”

Beginning next week-end, on September 13, Paris Autumn Festival offers up to december 21  a selection of all kinds of modern artistics productions to be seen in Paris.

It starts at La Maison Rouge, one of the Paris foundations dedicated to modern plastic arts, located next to Paris Arsenal Harbour, built in an old factory.

It’s first exhibition on this fall shows an untitled installation by Marie Cool and Fabio Balducci :

Their work is based on repetitive gestures and videos.

In a dark room, Christian Boltanski opens for us his Archives du Coeur (Heart’s files)

Both events start on Saturday September 13 from 11 to 15, and go on up to October 5, Wednesday to Sunday 11-19, up to 21 on Thursday. During next Paris Nuit Blanche (Wakeful Night), Boltanski’s exhibition will be running all night through October 4 to October 5

Next to the Maison Rouge exhibitions rooms is a bookstore dedicated to plastic arts, and usually a nice cafe, which is closed up to October 5. But during this time, instead of having a drink, you can pay a visit to Andrea Blum’s Birdhouse Cafe.

It’s a birds house where public is staying stuck up  the aviary, looking down at birds who move freely.

La Maison Rouge, 10 boulevard de la Bastille 75012 Paris, Metro Bastille or Quai de la Rapée, tel 33(0) 1 40 01 08 81, entrance € 6,50, €4,50 for over 65, free under 13.

Festival d’Automne de Paris, information and reservation 33(0)1 53 45 17 17 (Monfay to Friday 11 to 18, Saturday 11 to 15) and on www.festival-automne.com

Enjoy the beach in Paris : Paris Plage

Paris Plage has been going on since 2002 : every summer, Paris river banks are covered with sand, parasols and desk chairs.

If you go for water sports, you’ll find some activities for adults and for children as well around Bassin de la Villette : on Quai de Loire, adults can take a small boat or ride on a pedal boat (from noon to 8 PM), and 10 years old children can go sailing (9 AM to 11.30 and 13.30 to 17). Over 12 can also row (from 9AM to 11.30 and 17 to 20)

And if you feel hungry, why not have a pic nic on the water front?

Care for a dance ? Go to the other bank, to 45 quai de Seine, Balapaname is open everyday 17 to 20.30, up to 22 on week ends.(Metro Stalingrad)

If you want to play golf, go to Paris town hall

In front of it, you’ll find a nine holes mini golf. Metro Hôtel de Ville.

And nearby, at Pont-Marie, children over 7 can take a bath. But to take a swim on the Seine, go to Josephine Baker outdoor swimming pool.

photo Marc Vernhille

It’s just below the Great Library, on quai François Mauriac, Metro Quai de la Gare ou Bibliothèque François Mitterrrand. All informations on : www.paris.fr/portail/Sport/Portal.lut?page_id=6085

And if you care for music, up to August 17, every Friday, Saturday and Sunday, from 5 PM up to Midnight, Indétendance offers free concerts on Pont Sully. (Metro Sully-Morland). For program, go to :www.fnaclive.com/blogs/lefestivalfnac -

And if you’de rather just rest  a while, please do.

Paris Plage is running up to August 21, more information on : www.paris.fr/portail/ete/Portal.lut -

Paris Parc de la Villette : a place to visit this summer, for art, outdoor films and concerts

This summer, there are a lot of good reasons to go north up to Parc de la Villette, the largest of Paris gardens, offering a wide range of cultural and leisure activities.

The art event takes place in the beautiful glass Grande Halle :

Up to August 17, come in and discover a giant installation by Yayoï Kusama, who has been working on dots for forty years.

This artist, who was closed to Pop Art and Andy Warhol in the sixties, takes this pattern both light and seriously, declaring “My life is a dot lost among other dots”.

Tuesday to Sunday 14 to 22, free entrance.

And it goes with a workshop on dots for kids (from 2 years old). July Sunday 20, Wednesday 23 and Saturday 26 at 16.30. It’s one hour long, with a drink at the end, and costs € 7.  But you have to make a reservation, dialing 33(0)1 40 03 75 75.

Up to August 17,  you also have the opportunity to watch a film (in original version) sitting on a lawn, at Prairie du Triangle, Tuesday to Sunday at nightfall. Price € 2  . For € 5 you can book a deck chair and a blanket. Program on : www.cinema.arbo.com/index.php3?p=tous_films -

World musics every Sunday up to August 24 at Folie Belvédere : it’s scènes d’été (Summer Stages), July 20 and 27, August 3,10,17 and 24, one concert at 17.30 and one at 19.30. Free. Program and information on 33(0)1 40 03 75 75.

For all information on these events and detailed programs go to : www.villette.com/

Parc de la Villette, 211 avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris, Metro Porte de Pantin or Porte de la Villette

June 25 : Sales begin in Paris stores

Summer sales begin in Paris tomorrow morning Wednesday June 25, and will last up to August 2. As spring has been quite chilly, those who can’t try a summer dress when they freeze in their sweaters did’nt buy (I belong to this type ). And middle class people were not so wealthy, not to speak of lower classes - and as everybody knows, there’s no one so greedy as rich chicks who could bite or tramp on one another to get a good price at Gucci or Prada.

Anyway, I think that all kind of stores have a lot of stock. The first day is not a good day - unless you have already focused on one special thing. And if you can, rather try week’s late mornings than Saturday afternoon. If don’t find your size at Galeries Lafayette, try at the Printemps next door, or at the Bon Marché on left bank. They all send about the same trademarks. Or try small shops. Have fun.

Saturday June 21 : Fête de la Musique in Paris

It is the shortest night of the year, and as in most of the cities, it’s Fête de la Musique in Paris, where it was created in the eighties.

Pieces for chorus by French composers in Cour d’honneur du Sénat (Luxembourg garden) at 4 PM, chamber music in Parc de Bagatelle Orangerie (Bois de Boulogne) at 2PM : afternoon concerts in beautiful gardens for classical music amateurs. And in the evening, you may go on with Psyche by César Franck in Musée d’Orsay or Gounod’s Requiem at Eglise de la Madeleine (both at 20.30)

If you’re travelling with kids, head north up to Cité de la Musique : from 2 PM up to 22, all kind of concerts and activities for very young ones and for their parents.

If you’re a jazz fan, you’ll hang around rue des Lombards, starting at 9 PM, the three clubs in the street pay a tribute to Stéphane Grapelli. You pay for one show and attend the other free.

If you don’t fear the crowd, you’ll be Place de la Bastille : world music, rap and videos, beginning at 20.

You may also wander at random. Public transports run all night long (for 2.50 euros), but some stations will be closed at usual time. Maps and information in RER, train and metro stations.

For 0.35 euros, buy this week’s Officiel des Spectacles (tiny bible for all Paris shows issued every Wednesday) and have major Paris programs (filed by arrondissements) in your pocket.

Otherwise, for all information on all events around and in Paris go to : http://fetedelamusique.culture.fr/

Paris Bastille Antiques : treasures and oddments along the waterfront

There are a lot of flea markets, antiques shows and secondhand goods sales in Paris streets, in this time of he year, almost every week-end. One of the most nice and interesting “salon” takes place twice a year - in May and November - for 10 days on place de la Bastille and along the banks of Canal Saint-Martin.

Part of it takes place under a large tent, with one entry on boulevard de la Bastille in front of the opera, and the other one on boulevard Bourdon. It is the smartest, and the hottest (on sunny days) part of it.

There you can find most valuable goods, furniture, paintings, carpets, books, glass works…

oriental antiques…

ancient plates and African art…

and jewels to die for.

But it can be really hot in here, so step out in the open air.

a lot of smaller stands offer you all kind of secondhand and sometimes rare goods, in a warm atmosphere.

like this welcoming Bedouin camp offering beautiful kilims.

And it is really nice walking along the outside alleys overlooking canal Saint-Martin.

You can go from one side to the other by the footbridge over the Arsenal harbor, and you may feel the breeze.

It is more casual too. You may find wonders, and if you are interested in something, debate price with the stand owner, and if you wish some time to make a decision, ask for an invitation (or two) to come back.

Some stands specialize in a single kind of thing

like ancient linen

frames and paintings

or posters (mind the apparent disorder and the setting of this kitsch nativity and the carnal embrace on Slogan poster. )

Most have an appealing setting

or show an elaborate ” bric-a-brac”

in a surrealistic spirit.

Even if you don’t feel like buying anything, take a walk in there on a sunny day, you’ll have a great time.

“Antiquités Brocante” place de la Bastille, Metro Bastille, up to May 18, open everyday 11 to 19, entrance 8 euros. Next session : November 6 to November 16, same schedule.

And if you wish more information on when and where you can find this kind of event, go to : http://www.pointsdechine.com/