Paris october 2008 : opening of the 104, a major cultural event

Last Saturday, October 12, after two years of work and suspense, a great new artistic center, the Centquatre, was finally opened to public.

Part of the event is that it is located in a somewhat derelicted area in Paris 19ème arrondissement. It is named after its address : 104 rue d’Aubervilliers.

Built in 1873, this beautiful glass and iron structure was closed since 1997 after being Paris Municipal Funeral Service headquarters for a century.

Now it’s dedicated to all forms of living art, and its opening was a great success. During the afternoon, it got so crowded that a huge file had to wait in the street to come in.

Actually, the place is made of two glass halls, and has another entrance on rue Curial # 5.

On the rue Curial side, you can look at a large picture showing “the chaos” during the renovation made by the architects of Novembre workshop

Now, on two levels and 39000 m2, there are 18 artists workshops, two rooms of 200 and 400 hundred seats, besides the glass halls.

There are organized children activities, and on the opening day, many plaid with a scale model.

Among the many works in progress on that day, some will be going on:

Nicolas Simarik offers you to recycle your old keys, or to make a double of the one you carry with you. Then you get in exchange another key, the key of the centquatre . This key opens one of the boxes along the wall, composing an After Calendar, where you’ll find a surprise : an invitation to discover some unusual place in Paris.

Key gathering goes on up to December 31, Wednesday to Sunday from 12 to 20.

On both sides of the halls are long narrow English courtyards, transformed into evoluting gardens by Coloco, a group of three landscape architects. People of the neighborhood have been collecting local plants which now grow in these courts.

Convex mirrors on the wall give distorted reflects of the place.

Composer Gerard Pesson has created for the occasion Pompes/Circonstances, several musical pieces which will played on each new moon.

On Saturday 12, a musical action was performed by  Spat Sonore

They will be part of the first performance of Pompes/Circonstances, on October 28 at 19.

And next performances will take place on each new moon evening up 2010.

There is also restaurant and a bookshop, where of course you can find Pompes Funèbres by Jean Genet.

Le Centquatre is opened everyday, Tuesday to Saturday from 11 to 23, Sunday and Monday from 11 to 20. All information, program, history of the place – also available in english version – on www.104.fr .

104 rue d’Aubervilliers and 5 rue Curial, 75019 Paris. Metro Riquet. Entrance is free, but concerts, exhibitions and some events are 5 or 7 € . Information and reservation at 33(0)153 35 50 00 Monday to Friday  14 to 18, or on www.104.fr. You can also buy tickets on the spot.

Dance in Paris streets with “Paris Quartier d’été”

Up to August 16, Paris quartier d’été presents all kind of dance shows: ballet, modern dance, circus, experimental dancing…in different places like Tuileries Garden, piazza in front of Centre Pompidou Museum, Palais Royal Gardens…

Tickets available Wednesday to Saturday 15 to 19 place Colette (square in front of Palais Royal gates), 75001 Paris, Métro Palais Royal.

More information and program : dial 33(0) 1 44 94 98 00 or go to : www.quartierdete.com/

Saturday June 21 : Fête de la Musique in Paris

It is the shortest night of the year, and as in most of the cities, it’s Fête de la Musique in Paris, where it was created in the eighties.

Pieces for chorus by French composers in Cour d’honneur du Sénat (Luxembourg garden) at 4 PM, chamber music in Parc de Bagatelle Orangerie (Bois de Boulogne) at 2PM : afternoon concerts in beautiful gardens for classical music amateurs. And in the evening, you may go on with Psyche by César Franck in Musée d’Orsay or Gounod’s Requiem at Eglise de la Madeleine (both at 20.30)

If you’re travelling with kids, head north up to Cité de la Musique : from 2 PM up to 22, all kind of concerts and activities for very young ones and for their parents.

If you’re a jazz fan, you’ll hang around rue des Lombards, starting at 9 PM, the three clubs in the street pay a tribute to Stéphane Grapelli. You pay for one show and attend the other free.

If you don’t fear the crowd, you’ll be Place de la Bastille : world music, rap and videos, beginning at 20.

You may also wander at random. Public transports run all night long (for 2.50 euros), but some stations will be closed at usual time. Maps and information in RER, train and metro stations.

For 0.35 euros, buy this week’s Officiel des Spectacles (tiny bible for all Paris shows issued every Wednesday) and have major Paris programs (filed by arrondissements) in your pocket.

Otherwise, for all information on all events around and in Paris go to : http://fetedelamusique.culture.fr/

Summer coming in Paris : enjoy opera outdoor

June in Paris, season of outdoor opera in gorgeous settings.

This year, it’s Jacques Offenbach’s les contes d’Hoffmann (Hoffmann’s Tales)

This week it takes place in Paris Jardin du Luxembourg, and the scene is set in front the Senat Palace.

If the weather is fine (and it’s definitely better to go on a warm evening) you can take a walk in the garden and buy a ticket on the spot, close to the Senat and the rue de Vaugirard in front of Odeon theater entrance. It starts at 21.15 and runs on June 12,13 and 14. Price : 89 euros (“Carré d’or”), 67, 57 and 39 euros.

Then it will take place in Parc de Sceaux, in front of the castle on June 26, 27 and 28, and it’s a beautiful location too. I was there last year for die Zauberflöte and it was delightful. But this year, weather is a bit hectic theses days, so you’d better check weather forecast before booking in advance, calling 0892 707 920 (from France only).

From July 12 to September 14 takes place in Parc de Sceaux the Orangerie Festival, indoor classical music concerts, every Saturday and Sunday evenings, interesting to combine with a walk in this beautiful garden. Informations on : http://festival.orangerie.free.fr/

Reservation : FNAC and http://www.concertclassic.com/

After Sceaux, les contes d’Hoffmann will travel in other places in France, up to September

All information and reservation on : http://www.akouna.com/operaenpleinair/

Jardin du Luxembourg 75006 Paris, RER Luxembourg, main entrance Boulevard Saint-Michel, south entrance rue Auguste Comte, east entrance rue Guynemer, north entrances on rue de Vaugirard. Open everyday sunrise to sunset.

Parc de Sceaux RER B station Parc de Sceaux. Open everyday from sunrise to sunset. All information on http://www.pds92.net/parcdesceaux/accueil.htm

Paris Bastille Opera : “la femme sans ombre” is perfect

My report about last night first performance of Richard Strauss opera “Die Frau ohne Schatten” : As the rest of the enthusiastic audience, I had a great time.

A view of the theater during intermission, before part two.

I must apologize for my mistake : Hugo von Hofmannsthal wrote this opera’s libretto before he made a novel out of it : very German romantic, ultra metaphorical, and quite complicated.

Conductor Gustav Kuhn, the orchestra and chorus gave a brilliant interpretation of the beautiful score, all the performers had really great voices and played their part as well as they sang.

Eva-Maria Westbroek, the Empress looking for a shadow, on stage during part two.

Bob Wilson’s production is very impressive. The setting was marvelous, made of stylized geometric forms, moving and changing lights and colors, with some Japanese influence.

But a dark shadow is hanging over Thursday 01/24 performance: public sector has made a one day strike announcement, and usually opera technicians always go on strike whenever they can.

So for more information about what will be going (or not) at the opera on that day, better call : 0 892 89 90 90 if you are in France, or 33(0)1 72 29 35 35 if you are abroad.

And for general information on programs, and reservation : http://www.operadeparis.fr/

Paris place de la Madeleine, architecture and concerts at church

Paris place de la Madeleine is named after the large church built in it’s middle.

This “neoclassic” temple was meant to celebrate the Great Army’s glory. After Russian campaign, it’s glory was a bit stained, and Napoleon gave the place back to priests.

It faces a symmetrical temple, at the end of rue Royale’s perspective, National Assembly building.

The whole site is very very first empire’s style, including the obelisk, and in the distance, the Invalides golden dome.

The flowers along the stairs soften a little this pompous structure.

Some Tuesday and Saturday nights, the church becomes a concert hall.

Next concerts Saturday 11/17 at 20.30 : Mozart Requiem and Vivaldi’s Fourth Seasons.

Tuesday 11/27 at 20.30 : Mozart Requiem, Ave Maria by Caccini, Schubert, Gounod, pieces of Vivaldi, Pachelbel, Albinoni and Bach.

Tuesday 12/4 at 20.30 : Mass by Puccini, Mozart clarinet concerto, Massenet Thaïs Meditation.

You can purchase a ticket at church on concert’s day 11/13 and 15/20, at a table on the left when you come in. You can make a reservation, get informations about these concerts and others in several Paris churches at : http://www.concerts-sveto.com/

Reservation also on : http://www.fnacspectacles.com/

Price 40 euros (10 first rows), 30 euros (25 for students and over 60), or 20 euros.