Category Archives: passages and galeries

Places to see around Paris Beaubourg

There are several nice passages to discover in the streets around Beaubourg.

For example, take a few steps north on rue Saint-Martin, at #157, you’ll see one entrance to Passage Molière.

It’s a charming quiet paved alley, where you will find “the house of poetry” in the Molière Theater, and a few shops.

and it will lead you to rue Quincampoix # 82

Crossing boulevard de Sébastopol, you’ll find at rue de Palestro corner the main entrance of passage du Bourg l’Abbé.

It is one of the most genuine of Paris covered galleries.

Though the pipe’s factory at the entrance is now an insurance company office, at #18 the woodwork shop still exists.

And on the other side of the gallery, you’ll find another passage entrance:

On the opposite side of rue Saint-Denis opens passage du Grand-Cerf

With it’s three floors, and apartments doors, it is the tallest Paris covered gallery.

Under it’s beautiful glass roof, you’ll find mostly design shops. It leads you out on rue Dussoubs

There, rather than looking at your map, just look in front of you :

This strange and quiet place next to the crowded Montorgueil shopping area is called place Goldoni, and on the wall inlaid with soccer balls, two white pannels with strange “poetics” tales written on it.

This one says : “It’s been told that the vibrations created by balls thrown against this wall might wake up the roots of some small trees that have been sleeping for centuries. It might be just a coincidence, but when they reach the prints made by the balls which made them come back to life, most of these trees are fully grown. But on the contrary, some look for other landmarks to have a reason to grow up a little more.

The other talks in the same way of bugs grubs asleep in the wall, awaken by the children’ voices, and going out, they make tiny holes forming letters echoing to the children’s screams and songs.

Just an unexpected pause.

Passage Molière : 157 rue Saint-Martin/ 82 rue Quincampoix 75002 Paris metro Rambuteau. Information and programs for Théâtre Molière – Maison de la Poésie on : http://www.theatreonline.com/guide/detail_theatre.asp?i_Theatre=436

Passage du Bourg l’Abbé : 3 rue de Palestro/120 rue Saint-Denis 75002 Paris Metro Etienne Marcel, more information on : http://www.passagesetgaleries.org/texts/passages/2fiches_passages/fiches/bourg_labbe.html

Passage du grand cerf : 145 rue Saint-Denis/10 rue Dussoubs 75002 Paris Metro Etienne Marcel, all about it on : http://www.passagedugrandcerf.com/

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A walk in Paris around Palais Royal and place des victoires

Walking around Palais-Royal garden, you’ll meet several smaller and more simple pedestrian passages than Galerie Vivienne or Galerie Colbert, like the tiny passage de Beaujolais, leading from rue Montpensier to rue Richelieu.

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Down on rue Richelieu, at it’s crossing with rue Molière stands a typical nineteenth century style monument, carved by Louis Visconti and dedicated to the most famous French play writer, the Fontaine Molière.

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Up rue Richelieu, the National Library is being renovated, and in front its upper floors wear a light veil.

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The courtyard is not under scaffolding, and if you go in, you can visit a photo exhibition called “Trinity, historical and political photos taken by Carl de Keyser between 1991 and 2007.

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And leaving the courtyard, you see a huge fountain across the street.

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The ” Fontaine des quatres Fleuves“, another work by Louis Visconti, looks even larger for it stands in the middle of a small garden, the square Louvois .

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Going back south, at the end of rue des Petits-Champs, you can’t miss king Louis XIV proudly riding a horse in the middle of place des Victoires.

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All around this circular place, and the streets leading to it, every step you make you meet a fashion shop window.

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Going down rue Croix des Petits-Champs, you will find the elegant Galerie Véro-Dodat, where the “Fetish” exhibition by David Lynch took place last fall.

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But on place des Victoires, you can also take the small and quiet rue Notre Dame des Victoires.

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Oddly enough, it is dedicated both to the Virgin and to (French) victorious battles. It looks a bit stern outside, but quite baroque inside.

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With side altars all glowing with candles.

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And looking up, you’ll see a small virgin statue above the shops of the houses built in front of the church.

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The latter is protecting a shop window filled with orchids.

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The place, though, is called place des Petits Pères, and from there, you can see Galerie Vivienne third entrance, on rue de la Banque.

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Bibliothèque Nationale site Richelieu, 58 rue de Richelieu 75002 Paris Métro Bourse. Temporary exhibition : Carl de Kayser, Trinity, up to April 13, everyday except Monday 10-19, Saturday 12 -19, price 7 euros.

Virtual visit on : www.bnf.fr/pages/presse/dossiers/keyzer.pdf

Past and Present in Paris Galerie Vivienne

Just next door on rue des Petits-Champs, Galerie Vivienne is a more lively and luxurious twin sister to Galerie Colbert.

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It’s a beautiful place full of beautiful shops.

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While window shopping, take a look down on the mosaic floor, which is signed G. Faccina.

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If you feel tired or thirsty, just coming in, you can stop at Bistrot Vivienne

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Which also provides tables inside

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And if you’d rather have some tea than a glass of wine, walk a little further, and sit under the glass roof at “A priori thé

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At a crossing is a bookshop which sells old books and postcards.

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and next to it another bookshop that sells and buy old books too, and has a funny old sign

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And going further this way, the most stylish shop of all is Jean-Paul Gaultier.

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Following its window, you go out on rue Vivienne, once again close to Galerie Colbert.

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But Galerie Vivienne has a third entrance, on rue de la Banque

To know all about Galerie Vivienne and its shops, go to : http://www.galerie-vivienne.com/index.php

Galerie Vivienne : 4 rue des Petits-Champs, 6 rue Vivienne, 3 rue de la Banque 75002 Paris Metro Bourse or Palais-Royal

Bistrot Vivienne : 4 rue des Petits-Champs tel 33(0)1 49 27 00 50 open Monday to Saturday 12 to 23.

A priori thé : 35 galerie Vivienne tel 33(0)1 42 29 97 48 75 open Monday to Friday 9 – 18, Saturday up to 18.30, Sunday 12 – 18.30

Jean-Paul Gautier : ttp://www.jeanpaulgaultier.com/

Paris Galerie Colbert : back to nineteenth century

Leaving Palais-Royal garden at “le Grand Véfour” restaurant’s corner, rue Vivienne is just in front, with a red neon sign “le Grand Colbert , a typical Paris brasserie. Galerie Colbert is just next door.

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It’s just in front the National Library‘s back yard, and Galerie Colbert now belongs to it. It’s beautiful, a bit solemn and very quite.

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It leads to a circle under a glass roof

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In the middle stands a bronze statue by Charle François Leboeuf featuring Eurydice bitten by a snake, and there you make a right angle to follow the hallway, which leads out on rue des Petits Champs.

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On your right is “Le Grand Colbert” other entrance. Open the door :

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It’s a beautiful typical nineteenth century “brasserie” setting .

Le Grand Colbert 2 rue Vivienne 75002 Paris tel 33(0)1 42 86 87 88. About 30 euros. Everyday 12 to 1 am , reservation by phone only, virtual visit on : http://www.legrandcolbert.fr/#

Galerie Colbert 2 rue Vivienne and 6 rue des Petits Champs 75002 Paris. Metro Palais-Royal or Bourse.